One Small Step Toward Diversity
I have spent no small amount of time writing on this blog and in the newspaper about the lack of diversity on the runway. I've written about the efforts by industry veteran Bethann Hardison to impress upon the fashion industry the importance of thinking broadly when casting their runway shows. I've also mentioned that designer Diane von Furstenberg, the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, sent letters to designers reminding them that they are part of a global industry. I'm happy to report there has been progress.
One of the design houses that was held up as a major offender - for having a homogenous crew of white models - was Calvin Klein. I don't know how many times photos of last season's finale have been reproduced as evidence of what's wrong with the industry when it comes to diversity.

Black model Liya Kebede on the Calvin Klein runway (Maria Valentino for The Washington Post)
But at the show Thursday evening, lo and behold, the black model Liya Kebede was on the runway. Good for you Liya and bravo to designer Francisco Costa. Sure, it would be nice to have a veritable United Nations on the runway. But this is fashion and it's all about personal vision, not we-shall-overcome. I'm happy to see that Costa's vision has gotten a little broader. Doesn't that just make you feel all warm and fuzzy?
Many other runways also had a black model or two. In fact, the black model Jourdan Dunn was practically one of the stars of the runway this time around. It didn't look like any designer had to compromise his or her creative vision to do the right thing, either. They were able to convey boho chic, rich socialite, and even creepy cypher without freezing out an entire group of women. Yes, indeed, we can all manage to get along.
By the way, the New York fashion shows end today. I'll be going to Sean John and then Marc "I don't have a clock that works" Jacobs. Marc's show is scheduled for 7 p.m. Here's hoping that it starts by 8. Cheers!
By Robin Givhan |
February 8, 2008; 8:16 AM ET
New York
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Posted by: Richmond | February 8, 2008 10:13 AM
Related tangentially to Fashion Week, I'm always pleased that Project Runway features a very diverse model pool as well as a diverse array of designers. The show has introduced a lot of ordinary Americans to the inside workings of the fashion industry and, over time, it may be influential in its own right.
But diversity is not just skin deep, don't you think? Project Runway also features 'everyday women' in many of their challenges.
Are there any designers using 'plus size' models for their couture collections? That would be quite amazing to see, wouldn't it?
Posted by: Silver Spring | February 8, 2008 11:10 AM
In response to DVF having to write a letter (and obviously Varvatos did not care), its a shame a letter even had to be written.
Posted by: KH | February 8, 2008 11:44 AM
John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier have both used plus-size models in shows. And we're talking plus-plus-size. Makes one wonder if it was to poke fun at the beanpoles or to make the larger models look grotesque.
Posted by: Richmond | February 8, 2008 12:01 PM
I'll count the fashion industry as diverse when I see true plus-size models in the magazines and on the runway. To me, the thick but svelte size 10s don't count as plus size. Show me a woman who is a size 24 and is about 5'5 with a muffin top, short legs and a double chin. That'll make the industry diverse.
Posted by: showmeyours | February 8, 2008 03:35 PM
You write a blog posting about the lack of diversity in the fashion industry and your focus is on skin color? Good grief, are you blind?
Posted by: Give me a break | February 8, 2008 10:08 PM
Once again I comment, an industry that is so overwhelmingly gay and woman and so unwilling to seek out beauty in its many hues. And yet "we" are happy to have a candidate that is not running as a "black" candidate. America's racial schizophrenia runs deep. Interesting that Francisco Costa's Calvin Klein was held up as a major offender, the name sake was notoriously anti-ethnic. To be continued!
Posted by: Earl Gadberry | February 10, 2008 02:14 AM
Robin-
Where are the Fashion articles? This blog entry is not enough. What did you think of Rodarte? Marc Jacobs, Ralph, Donna etc. Come on Ms thing, you didn't get a Pulitzer for your blog entries. We need your feedback.... Im Dieing here,
Posted by: Nick | February 10, 2008 05:53 PM
Sorry-
Just realized you now have to scroll all the way down to acess your articles.
Posted by: Nick | February 12, 2008 04:36 PM
This blog written about skin color ignores the challanges of creating diversity in a niche market. We would like to read constructive positive statements coming from the desks of The Washington Post writers.
Posted by: Thomas Michael Kunishima Santulli | February 13, 2008 11:40 AM
Thank you for calling attention to this. As an African-American woman who loves fashion, I can't find it in my heart (or wallet) any way to buy clothing from designers who treat me like a non-entity. And it's more than a little pathetic that a column even has to be written on this subject in this day and age.
Shouldn't diversity in all phases of life just be a given by now?
Posted by: Jasmine C. | February 15, 2008 07:41 PM
Given the massive consumer buying power of the Black community in America (particularly with fashion), it is alarming that so many key designers elected to remove Black models from the runway.
Kudos Robin for keeping this discussion active in the fashion discourse.
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There were also a few Asian models on the catwalks this year - Du Juan and Han Jin seemed to be popular choices. And Chanel Iman was a splash, as usual, although I find her excessively youthful look disturbing. Despite having recently turned a whopping 18, she always looks barely thirteen to me, and she's not alone. This season it seemed to distract from the clothes, particularly for designers like Carolina Herrera who cater to a more sophisticated crowd. Granted, Herrera's line was full of confusing turns that wouldn't look good on anyone - fur waistlines? - but most of the gamine models looked like they were playing dress-up in their mothers' clothes.