Christian Lacroix's View of History
Designer Christian Lacroix, who showed his collection Wednesday evening, has always been known for his exuberant historical references and his eye for detail. So it wasn't surprising to discover that he had curated an exhibition on fashion history at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. What makes the exhibition stand out is that it is organized thematically rather than chronologically. It begins with a section on the color white, moves through vitrines on polka dots, stripes, transparency, and so on. It ends with a group of black garments. So it's possible to find a brightly colored Pierre Cardin frock from the 1970s hanging in the same case as a Jeanne Lafaurie garment from 1939. Comme des Garcons' work hangs next to anonymous historical costumes.
Designer Christian Lacroix takes to the runway.(AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
Each group features several examples of Lacroix's work -- often accessorized with pieces from the museum's permanent collection. Lacroix's work is surrounded by pieces he has chosen that address the same topic. The exhibition is as colorful and dynamic as one of Lacroix's runway shows.
But it isn't exactly an intellectually rigorous exhibition. And I like a little brain-candy with my fashion. I was hoping that I might see, for example, how designers through the decades have had similar responses to the idea of volume or texture. Or to have seen the way in which fashion repeats itself from one generation to the next. But only Lacroix's garments are on mannequins. The others are on racks or presented in such a way that it can be difficult to see the full garment.
It felt a bit as if you were browsing a really good vintage shop - except of course for that pesky problem of not being allowed to touch anything.
By Robin Givhan |
February 29, 2008; 8:27 AM ET
Paris
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Posted by: Fellow journo | February 29, 2008 06:25 PM
I wish someone had gone to see the Paris runway show for Ivana Helsinki, a wonderful small Finnish label, and their first major show. I was so looking forward to reading about it in my favorite Style Section!
Posted by: Susanna | March 1, 2008 12:54 PM
Who covers makeup trends seen in these gala's?
Looking at the photos found me wishing I could wash all the models faces - they looked unclean, not just overly madeup.
What is going on?
Posted by: FairyRing | March 1, 2008 03:08 PM
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This sounds interesting but New York's Cooper Union hosted a similar clothing exhibition in 2005, curated entirely around color. Rather than Lacroix though, it was heavy on Viktor & Rolf and Junya Watanabe. (Not that I'm complaining.)