Flavor Feature: Eggnog

It's Dec. 1, which means eggnog season has officially begun. But like white shoes in summer, the window of opportunity is small for this traditionally eggy drink that has been served at holiday soirees since the 19th century.

A few questions inevitably come up whenever there's a punchbowl of eggnog:

* Do you cook the eggs?
I tend to err on the side of caution with my eggnog and slowly cook the eggs, in a saucepan, with sugar and whole milk. I also like to heat the egg-dairy mixture until it reaches a safe 160 degrees.

* Do you add whipped egg whites on top?
This tends to make the nog very frothy and gives the perception that the eggnog is somehow lighter with a whipped topping. I think the perception is overrated, but that's a personal preference.

* What kind of booze is best?
I am a fan of rum or bourbon-izing my eggnog. Other respectable options include cognac and brandy. And, of course, "untainted" eggnog is a scrumptious option. For the kids, consider adding some cocoa powder to the mix.

Until recently, the whole nog thing has been all about eggs and dairy. This left the vegans, lactose intolerant and Kosher folks out in the nog cold. Now there's nog made from soy milk, flavored to mimic the original version.

I picked up a box of "Holly Nog" from Vita Soy, which I found delightfully nog-like, with lots of nutmeg notes. It was also free of the cloying and sickeningy sweet characteristics of its dairy counterparts in the refrigerated section that make me run for the hills.

Another consideration is the calorie difference. An eight-ounce glass of soy nog is 120 calories, probably about half the amount of the egg version. With alcohol, a glass of eggnog becomes something akin to a full meal. Yikes. In fact, this has prompted me to send a note to Lean Plate Club Queen Sally Squires for some hard numbers. Stay tuned on that matter.

I've also heard about "Silk Nog" made by the producers of Silk Soy products, but I have not seen it yet in the stores. Please let me know if you spot it or any other soy noggy concoction.

And now, for some details on nogging about. The first recipe is one I have used over the years with great success. Following that is a recipe from the folks at Maker's Mark Bourbon, using uncooked eggs, egg whites and a whole bunch of the booze. See which rocks your punch bowl.

Now for a little quiz: What's eggnog called in Puerto Rico? And if you think you know, what distinguishes from the regular ol' nog? Write your answers in the comments section below.

Eggnog
Adapted from "The Ultimate Party Drink Book" by Bruce Weinstein

Ingredients:
12 eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
4 cups whole milk
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
At least _ teaspoon grated nutmeg (add _ teaspoon more to taste)
4 - 12 ounces alcohol (optional)

Method:
Combine egg yolks with sugar and mix well with a wooden spoon. The mixture will thicken and turn pale yellow. Set aside. Use egg whites for another purpose or beat them for eggnog garnish.

Pour milk in a saucepan over medium heat. As it comes to a simmer (tiny bubbles rising to the surface), spoon out between one and four ladles' worth of milk into the yolk mixture and stir constantly. Watch for the rise in temperature in the egg bowl; it should begin to feel warm. This process is called tempering, which helps prevent curdling of the eggs.

Return the yolk/milk mixture to the saucepan and stir over low heat. The mixture will begin to thicken as it rises in temperature. Shoot for approximately 160 degrees and a mixture thick enough for a visible finger streak on the back of wooden spoon. Use a whisk, alternating with spoon, to aerate the mixture. Once mixture is at 160 degrees, pour mixture over a strainer and let cool in a bowl that's sitting in an ice bath.

Add vanilla and nutmeg. Add the booze (brandy, rum or bourbon are all nice choices). Of course, this is optional, and virgin eggnog is just as delicious.

Cover and chill. Serve in small glasses (4 ounces is a good estimate, as it's so rich), either straight up or on the rocks.

Makes approximately 2 quarts.

Maker's Mark Bourbon Eggnog
Ingredients:
1 Liter Maker's Mark
1 Quart milk
1 Quart heavy cream
2 Dozen eggs
1 1/2 Cups sugar
Nutmeg for garnish

Method:

Separate eggs and beat the yolks until creamy. Whip sugar into the yolks, then beat the whites until they stand in peaks, adding a 1/2 cup of additional sugar if desired. Beat the yolks and Maker's Mark together and add the whites. Beat cream into a froth, then add milk and cream to the egg mixture. Add nutmeg to taste and garnish each cup with a dash of nutmeg for a dash of color.
Makes 2 1/2 gallons.

By kimodo |  December 1, 2005; 12:30 PM ET  | Category:  31 Flavors of December , Wine and Spirits
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