Taxicab Confessions
Cabbie: Where are you from?
Us: Washington, D.C. in the United States.
C: You know George Bush?
U: (polite laughter) No, we've never met him.
C: You know Osama Bin Laden?
U: (slight discomfort) No.... We've never met him either.
C: Do you want to meet him?
U: (wondering where he's going with this) Um... no. (sincerely hoping that we're not on our way to see him right now)
C: I want to meet him very much.
U: Uhhh... Really? Why?
C: So that I could turn him in to the United States and gets lots and lots of American dollars. (hysterical guffaws)
U: (relieved smiles) Oh, okay.
C: No, I couldn't do that. They would kill all my family. (another explosion of hilarity)
U: (polite but uncomfortable laughter)
As we have been traveling this last leg of our trip, we found that most everyone we shared our itinerary with wanted to discuss our final destination: Dubai. Reactions normally fell into two categories: the "why-on-earth-would-you-want-to-go-to-the-Middle-East-right-now?" type and the "I-have-been-there-it-is-fabulous-you-will-love-the-shopping" variety. Not once did we talk to someone who had visited the city and left with anything other than a positive impression. It's now obvious to us that none of these people were cabbies.
Built from almost nothing in less than 50 years, Dubai has become a hot destination for those with Conde Nast subscriptions. To overseas companies, Dubai is the Mideast city to shake hands, trade business cards and rent office space. It's not exactly "Westernized," but it is certainly permissive of Western customs. Europeans, Canadians and Americans dress how they like and drink want they want, though they pay a premium for the privilege of consuming alcohol. Dubai's safe surroundings and hospitality toward foreign capital continues to fuel the economic boom. Add a good number of fantastically ambitious developments and it is no wonder the city has captured the imagination of high-end tourists who are arriving in Emirates Airlines' first class massage seats.
All of this poses a question: what is the most noticeable down side to the quick pace of growth and wealth? Traffic.
One wants to make parallels to Las Vegas ("It's like Vegas with religion," someone told us in New Zealand) with the vast amounts of sand, massive hotels and penchant for pastels. But there are noticeable differences besides the lack of open liquor laws and sidewalk porn and the difference that affected us most was the sheer distance separating Dubai's major attractions. Unlike Sin City, walking from one architectural monstrosity to another is not only nearly impossible, but, during the height of summer, it's downright dangerous. Since Cindy and I were staying in the old city, (to the best of our knowledge, rooms at backpacker rates are nonexistent in the newer, resort-ier areas), taxis became our principal mode of transportation.
Because the traffic made getting from one shopping mall to another time consuming, most of our interaction with locals consisted of chatting with our taxi drivers. Except, none of them were actually local. They were from Pakistan, India, Iran, Tunisia and Ethiopia. Foreigners make up around 80 percent of the population in Dubai, and these expatriates come from all over to fill niches in all economic groups. Our drivers, like many of the other expats we spoke with who had come to the UAE to make money, told us they didn't particularly like Dubai. The phrase we heard a lot was, "It's too much." They are grateful to the city for allowing them to prosper, but they live for those few months a year when they can go home. Talking to them about their countries and their families became highlights of our day.
A Pakistani man told us about his wedding night. How nervous he was meeting his bride for the first time. How he delayed entering the marriage bedroom until very late with his mother eventually forcing him in. How his new wife was just as shy as he was. And when he finally got up the courage to ask permission for a kiss, she got frightened and ran into the other room. This scared him even more and he fled the house entirely, going to spend the night with a friend. But they eventually got over their jitters and now he loves his "little wife" and four children terribly much.
When we got to talking, nearly all the cabbies expressed surprise that we didn't have kids yet, after being married three years. We were often told to "go see a doctor." We tried to explain that people in the U.S. tend to wait a little longer to have children. Also, our cabbie friends nearly always encouraged us to visit their home countries and described them warmly and richly, though they admitted that home wasn't as good for business as Dubai. When we suggested that they come to the U.S. to visit or to live, the words were invariably the same: "It's a dream."
By Meredith Bragg |
May 7, 2006; 7:43 PM ET
| Category:
Dubai
,
Tales From The Road/Skies
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Posted by: Peter Himmelberger | May 9, 2006 07:33 PM
Perhaps it is because my experience with Dubai cabbies is more limited, but I have extensive experience with cabbies elsewhere in the Gulf and I'd say that this story is for the most part accurate, if somewhat stylized.
The reason that most tourists leave with such a rosy opinion of Dubai is because they only spent time in the tourist areas: Madinat Jumairah, Mall of the Emirates et al, Ski Dubai, etc. For a contrast to the taxis that the tourists and relatively well-to-do expats take, try the public bus or one of the abra water taxis across the Dubai Creek. I think that gives a much better picture of what the real Dubai is.
Posted by: Chris Bobbitt | May 10, 2006 09:09 AM
I read your blog with alot of fondness. I have been to Dubai many times throughout the past few years for holiday, and I am very fortunate to have local friends from the city. I also hear from people that the city is "too much", and it is plain to see why people would say that. I typically get around in taxis too when I am there, and that has by far been some of my most memorable parts of my visits. The cabbies are incredibly kind, generous, and always offering help and tidbits on how to get along in Dubai. I think your blog is very accurate. I think people who stay on the Deira side of the city will have more of an authentic experience then those who stay on the Bur Dubai side. It's hard to find authenticity in Dubai, but Shindagha Village is a good place to start. I think Americans who visit Dubai will be very impressed by the kindness of people and will have a wonderful holiday.
Posted by: Michael in Washington | May 10, 2006 05:09 PM
I have lived in Dubai for 8 months now and it is very much a love-hate relationship. Everytime I compare it to DC, I hate it.. the lack of vegetation, the dirtiness of the Dubai Creek water, the sand that encases my car in a friendly hug the minute I pull out of the carwash, and of course, the traffic.. not necessarily the quantity of it ( very comparable to DC Beltway rush hour) but the way people drive.. all these are the reasons I hate it so much.. but on the flip side.. the intensity at which things are done, buildings go up, new developments are finished, and the number of things to do, for tourists or expat residents ( at the right income levels) make it an exciting place to be..all that and the tax benefit keep me here. However if the Cost of Living keeps going up at the spectacular rate it has been, I assume all of us American and Canadians will pack it up and go home..as the tax savings will be offset by the price of bread and cheese at the supermarket.
Posted by: Amr | May 11, 2006 09:37 AM
Been to Dubai several times. Its claim to be the most "Westernized" city is superflous. You have to tread with caution. I'd say its a C- when it comes to world cities, but then again its the Middle East.
Posted by: John A. Smith | May 26, 2006 12:21 PM
you mention that westerners pay a 'premium' to drink alcohol in dubai.That is a very untrue statement. Drinks at the dubai bars are cheaper than in the western world ,especially compared to NY, or London etc.
Also, anyone can buy 4 bottles at the airport EVERY TIME they enter dubai and the prices in the duty free are the cheapest in the world.
Posted by: ahmed | May 29, 2006 07:05 AM
I don't know on what basis you say they are prospering. The cabbie in Dubai makes Dh 2000 a month which is equivalent to about US $ 550. Half of it goes for rent. The landlord ofcourse is a local. Interestingly, cabbie in Abu Dhabi also make around the same while the fares in Dubai are atleast three times higher. The difference goes to the ruling family who owns the taxi companies. No wonder they are buying assets around the world. Unfortunately, the circumstances in their own countries are so bad that these cabbies dont have any choice. Also, if you want to see how the working class lives go to Sharjah or the labor camps around Jebel Ali. Also racial discrimination is not just rampant but legitimized. Ofcourse the locals are the most highly paid than come the north americans/europeans (meaning white North Americans/europeans) and the poor indians and Filipino are at the near bottom. And who says there are no taxes. Its all indirect taxation. Dubai doesn't have hydrocarbon resources on the scale of Abu Dhabi or Qatar than where are they getting all this money to invest. Follow the money and you will find out what is being taxed. Oh just a minute...you cannot as the whole place is opaque. Real estate was being sold to foreigners while the law has not be issued and when it was issued it didnt specify where could the foreigners buy real estate in Dubai. The place is a enigma surrounded in mystery from the Arabian Nights!!!!
Posted by: BA | May 29, 2006 04:03 PM
I can tell that some of the comments are from either Americans or British. They are so biased and yet they seem to enjoy easy living in Dubai, earning loads of money and living in dream homes, something they could never afford in their countries. I don't know what the American was talking about, I have been to New York and all the taxi drivers were foreigners, as for UK, what are they talking about, their main dish is now curry.
Posted by: Z.H.B | May 30, 2006 03:05 AM
The comments to this entry are closed.
Having taken literally hundreds of taxicabs in Dubai over the last two years, I find your story incredible that a Dubai taxi driver would actually talk to you in that fashion. I have found nothing but the most courteous and politically correct drivers there. Also they all speak english which puts them ahead of many countries taxi drivers.